Hakushu Distiller's Reserve

What it is

Hakushu Distiller's Reserve is the entry point to Suntory's mountain distillery, released in 2014 as age statements across the range came under supply pressure. Bottled at 43% with no age statement, which is precisely what allows Suntory to keep making it in volume.

Where it comes from

Suntory confirms that every exported Suntory whisky is 100% distilled, matured and bottled in Japan, and lists Hakushu single malt among the brands compliant with the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association labelling standard. Because it's a single malt, everything in the bottle comes from Hakushu.

How it's made

The distillery was built in 1973 at around 700 metres in the Southern Japanese Alps, with a second still house added in 1981. It runs pot stills of varying shapes and sizes, which is the reason a single distillery can produce this much variation. Distiller's Reserve is built from a mix of lightly peated and heavily peated components, matured across American oak, Spanish oak sherry butts and Japanese oak. Younger components sit forward in the blend, which is why the peat reads a little louder here than in the 12.

What to expect

Fresh and lively. Green apple, pear, mint and a cucumber note that gets mentioned so often it's become a cliche, plus a clear lick of smoke. It's light rather than deep, and it's superb in a highball, which is the job it was designed for.

How it compares

Against Hakushu 12 the Distiller's Reserve is younger, peatier and less refined, but also available and considerably cheaper. If you're mixing, this is the correct choice and the 12 is a waste. Against Suntory Toki, a blend that leans on Hakushu malt, Distiller's Reserve is the single malt version of a similar idea.