Hakushu Japanese Forest Bittersweet Edition

What it is

A limited edition Hakushu released by Suntory in 2023, bottled at 43% with no age statement. The distinguishing feature is the wood: reportedly matured exclusively in Spanish oak, which is a significant departure for a distillery known for green, lightly smoky whisky.

Where it comes from

Suntory confirms that all exported Suntory whisky is 100% distilled, matured and bottled in Japan and lists Hakushu single malt among the brands meeting the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association labelling standard. No imported whisky. Being a single malt, everything comes from the one distillery in the Southern Japanese Alps.

How it's made

Hakushu was built in 1973 at around 700 metres in thick forest, chosen specifically to produce something unlike Yamazaki. The cool air slows maturation, and the distillery uses both lightly and heavily peated malt, which is where its usual smoke comes from. Spanish oak sherry butts are normally a supporting element in the Hakushu recipe rather than the whole of it, so leaning entirely on them changes the balance considerably. Suntory published relatively little about this release, which is part of why it went under the radar.

What to expect

Much more sherried than a typical Hakushu, to the point that reviewers have noted it reads closer to a Yamazaki. Honey syrup, raisin, date and orange marmalade, then toasted sugar, molasses and prune with green apple and lemon underneath. The fruity smoke people associate with Hakushu is largely absent.

How it compares

Against Hakushu 12 or Distiller's Reserve, this is a different animal: sherry-led rather than green and smoky. If you like Hakushu specifically for the forest-fresh character, this may not be what you want. If you like Yamazaki's sherry weight, it will land better. Against Hakushu Story of the Distillery 2024, that one is bourbon cask led and closer to the house style.