Nikka Coffey Malt

What it is

Nikka Coffey Malt was developed in 2013 as a companion to Coffey Grain. It's made from 100% malted barley, but distilled in a Coffey continuous still rather than a pot still, which means it can't be classified as malt whisky. Nikka categorises it as grain whisky. Bottled at 45%.

Where it comes from

Nikka publishes the compliance status of each product on its own site, and Coffey Malt carries the statement that it does not meet all the criteria of Japanese whisky as defined by the Japan Spirits and Liqueurs Makers Association. Nikka has separately confirmed that Coffey Malt is one of the products containing whisky from outside Japan. Nikka owns Ben Nevis in Scotland and has done since 1989, and its own Coffey still capacity at Miyagikyo has never kept up with demand.

This is worth pausing on, because Nikka Coffey Grain, made on the same stills at the same distillery, does meet the standard. Same brand, same still house, different answer. There's no shortcut with this producer.

How it's made

Nikka's two Coffey stills were imported from Scotland in 1963 and 1966 and are the only ones of their kind in Japan. They're inefficient and awkward to run, which is the point: they carry more flavour through than a modern column still, and give the distinctive oily, creamy texture this whisky is known for. Maturation is in old casks, which keeps the wood influence low and lets the malt character sit forward.

What to expect

Thick and soft, more about texture than flavour. Malt biscuit, toffee and citrus, with a silky mouthfeel that's the whole reason people buy it. Very little oak. It's an unusual thing to drink and it doesn't taste much like either a malt or a grain whisky.

How it compares

Coffey Grain is the obvious pairing, made the same way but predominantly from corn, sweeter and lighter. Buy both if you want to understand what the still is actually doing. Against Nikka From The Barrel, another Nikka product that doesn't meet the standard, this is far gentler and far less intense.